2013 Viticcio ‘Prunaio’ Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, Italy
‘Gran Selezione’ is quite a new category in the Chianti Classico hierarchy.
Since 2014, these wines represent the top tier in quality, above the Riserva wines. Grapes for Gran Selezione must come from estate vineyards and cannot be bought, and the wines are carefully tasted by an independent committee to ensure they are of sufficiently-high quality.
Moreover, these wines must be aged for a minimum of 30 months before release, compared to 24 months for the Riservas.
Producers therefore have put a lot of effort into ensuring they put the best lots into the long ageing process of the Gran Selezione.
Viticcio is no exception with this flagship Chianti Classico called ‘Prunaio’.
While some wineries blend in some Syrah or Merlot to their Gran Selezione, Viticcio has gone for a ‘traditional’ 100% Sangiovese here, although they do claim it is “made unexpectedly in Super Tuscan style”.
The winery says it’s made from “two single vineyards at 300 and 430 MASL”. Let’s call it a “double vineyard” wine then, from blocks at a standard (for the Chianti area) 300+ meters above sea level.
What’s more distinctive though, is that the vineyards have been managed using biodynamic agriculture methods since planting, and that the Sangiovese Grosso variety comes from a clonal or “massal” selection done in the early 1980s of vines grown in Montalcino.
About 20,000 bottles of Prunaio are made each year.
So in the end, how god is this 2013 Viticcio ‘Prunaio’ Chianti Classico Gran Selezione?
The answer is in the tasting notes:
Seriously dark and dense to the appearance.
The wine blends richness of ripe berry fruit aromas on the nose, with plenty of spices and oaky tones.
There’s a very intense cassis (blackcurrant) note to the aromatic profile that reminds of new world wines. It’s intense fruity and enjoyable. Plenty of fig character too, which is rather unexpected and somewhat surprising.
Depth is provided by sweet and peppery spices. Vanilla and smoke complete the picture of a complex appealing nose.
On the palate, there is the typical dryness, almost austere feel to the wine providing the black olive-like savoriness so typical of good Chianti Classico wine. But the ripeness of the fruit also provides richness and an impression of sweetness that balances it out and makes it taste appealing.
Tannins are dense and quite smooth, with an earthy character to the finish. Plenty of minerality and volcanic ashes tones to the finish too giving the wine a strong personality.
A Chianti Classico of great concentration and outstanding character. It offers a rather modern interpretation of the style, with ripe red berry flavors, dense oaky tannins and a rich smooth mouthfeel.
But the essence of a 101 Chianti Classico is there with its strong personality, almost rusticity that delivers a typical savoriness that works so well with food and so much better than your average new world fruit bomb.
The best of different worlds surprisingly combined: sweet and sour, new and old world in a well-executed wine that pushes the expression of its terroir and origin to a pretty solidly-high level.
Wine & Food Pairing
We suggest you try this perfect matching recipe that perfectly pairs with Super Tuscan wines by Best Sommelier in the World Francois Chartier: Sandwich of Duck Confit, Nigella and Arugula
Learn more about the producing winery and all their wine reviews at Viticcio in Chianti Classico producer profile:
Viticcio ‘Prunaio’ Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Label Images