Wine Review of 2014 Olivier Leflaive Auxey-Duresse Chardonnay, Burgundy White from France
Auxey-Duresse is a lesser-known AOC appellation of Burgundy, yet one established back in 1937 and located right in the heart of the Cote d’Or where the best wines are made.
From Beaune, Auxey-Duresse is located in a valley going west towards the Hautes Côtes. The area is split between a red Pinot Noir wine-producing zone, on the Monthélie and Volnay side, while the marls of Lachepelle, on the western side of the appellation, remind of those in Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault more suited to making Chardonnay wine.
The Auxey-Duresse white reviewed here is made by famous Puligny-Montrachet Burgundy winery Olivier Leflaive.
But So, How Good is Olivier Leflaive Auxey-Duresse?
This white Burgundy comes in a lightly pale lemon-yellow color, with shiny hints of a gold hue.
The nose feels savory, dominated by quite intense aromas of sour dough, yeasts, and hazelnut, clearly smelling much like it was aged in used barrels and stirred on lees for a while. Some floral and citrusy scents are very discrete, in the background only, while peppery and ginger bread spices are clear, giving a spicy lift to the aromatic profile.
Relatively complex to smell at, with the clear signature of aged-on-lees Burgundy Chardonnay, with a savory feel overall.
The palate is both opulent and crisp, with a sharp and zingy acidity providing freshness and developing towards a dry salivating salty finish. Big burst of roasted hazelnut flavors, are joined by fresh zesty lemon ones, always with this characteristic heap of sour doughy brioche and mixed spices.
A savory, yeasty, dry, and crisp Burgundy white.
Its outstanding features are its mineral, salty, and savory flavors, probably rich in umami too, as well as its distinctive sour dough aromas. The whole is balanced and crisp, elegant and zingy as we love with Bourgogne blanc wine.
A wine for pairing with food. While it might appear a little austere for sipping on its own, its powerful salty and umami features will certainly underline and amplify the flavors of delicate savory/earthy dishes, like subtle Asian dishes (e.g. Japanese cuisine), meaty entrées or cheeses.