Recipe, and wine and food matching from François Chartier “Créateur d’harmonies”
The browning reaction that occurs when we cook various foods is called the “Maillard Reactions”.
My accomplice, chef Stephane Modat – from Fairmont Château Frontenac, in Quebec City – and I created this recipe as a tribute to the chemist Louis-Camille Maillard (1878-1936) – we will commemorate the eighty years of his death on May 12.
The volatile compounds that are triggered when coffee and Chinese Lapsang Souchong smoked black tea are heated, or when meats and vegetables are charred or strongly browned, are from the same aromatic universe as wines that were raised in oak barrels.
Coffee is a flavour enhancer that creates a synergy between foods of the same family. So this recipe was created to match perfectly with red barrel-aged wines, rich in same aromatic molecules of smoked black tea and coffee, also rich in “umami”, like the tempranillo wines from Spain or sangiovese wines from Italy, such as the Toscana Rosso 2010 Chartier Créateur d’harmonies, Italy.
Social Vignerons also suggests another Red wine from Tuscany in the name of 2012 Donatella Cinelli Colombini Fattoria del Colle Il Drago e Le Otto Colombe Toscana IGT.
3/8 cup (90 ml) smoked black Lapsang Souchong tea infusion
1/2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) Nescafe Rich instant coffee
1 teaspoon (2.5 g) soy lecithin powder (available in health food stores)
1/2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) fine salt
1 cup (250 ml) canola oil
1 1/2 teaspoons (3 g) loose smoked black Lapsang Souchong tea (see Proportions).
Lapsang Souchong tea infusion: in a saucepan, bring 1 cup of water to simmer, take off heat and add 1 ½ teaspoons of Lapsang Souchong tea. Let steep 5 minutes, filter and reserve.
In a blender, add all ingredients, save for the oil and loose tea.
Blend for 2 minutes, and slowly add canola oil. Blend for 1 minute, and add loose Lapsang Souchong (see Proportions). Blend for another minute. Reserve.
At the table
This emulsion is wonderful with grilled meat. Simply brush the emulsion on cooked meat, or before cooking a piece of meat (to increase the umami effect). It is also great with grilled asparagus salad. Asparagus and coffee are both rich in “taste-enhancing” molecules, as are boiled red beets, which you can sauté with this emulsion. Let us not forget the amazing union with our Unsmoked Smoked Salmon (see Les Recettes de Papilles et Molécules).
For grilled green asparagus salad or red beets salad: use ½ teaspoon of Lapsang Souchong tea when blending the emulsion.
For oven-roasted meat: use 2 teaspoons of Lapsang Souchong to strengthen the smoky flavour.
For meat grilled on the BBQ: use 2 ½ teaspoons of Lapsang Souchong tea, to get an even stronger smoky flavour, which will tie in perfectly with the grilled notes.
In this case, you should opt for red barrel-raised wines, rich in same aromatic molecules of smoked black tea and coffee. Remember, as the “umami” flavour is also dominant in this recipe, it is important the wines you choose also be rich in “umami”. You can select red wines made with Garnacha and/or Tempranillo (Spain), as assemblage wines such as Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre (GSM), or some Italian sangiovese, like the Toscana Rosso 2010 Chartier Créateur d’harmonies, Italy.
This guest post was writen by Francois Chartier exclusively for Social Vignerons.
Learn more about our guest with our Interview Francois Chartier – Best Sommelier in the World (Grand Prix Sopexa 1994).